Louie’s tastes familiar, and that’s more than enough right now

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL

  • Griffin Swartzell

1146 E. Fillmore St., 473-0060, louies-pizza.com

Delivery and pickup

New York-style pizza is not necessarily the best kind of pizza out there. It holds its lofty status in American food because there is some really excellent New York-style pizza and because of the outsized influence New York and Los Angeles have on the national consciousness.

St. Louis pizza can be great, too, on its cracker-like crust cut into squares. Same with Detroit pizza, square pan giving it the crisp-edged delight of the edge pieces of lasagna. The best pizza is the kind of pizza that sparks emotion beyond straightforward gustatory pleasure, and for some, that means the best pizza in town comes from Louie’s.

Seeking comfort and nostalgia, we jump on a $12.99 any size, any pizza, three toppings deal we find on the restaurant’s website and get a pizza with green peppers, onion and mushrooms, as well as an order of garlic cheese bread.

While we aren’t showering the crust with awards for its airiness, it tastes great and doesn’t sog under the toppings. Their red sauce does a good job, too, flavor not straying too far to sweet, acidic or herbaceous. And that garlic cheese bread proves to be a flavorful indulgence as it has many times before, buttery and gooey, made better when dipped in a tangy marinara.

It tastes familiar, and right now, that’s all we could ask for.