Moo Shu Chicken and comfort food at China Village

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203 N. Union Blvd., 475-8299,

Delivery and pickup

It’s busy at China Village when we stop in for takeout. Six people wait for their food in the foyer; the dining room has been blocked off by couches and tables.

Behind the counter, on the other side of a table from those waiting, a woman takes orders over the phone and passes brown paper bags out to waiting diners, acting as the switchboard for the whole place. We see only one other employee, dressed for cooking and bringing out the food. So sure, we have something of a wait for our order of comfort food, but it’s understandable, given what we now know.

And when we get home, the pork fried rice tastes exactly as one would hope: warm, savory, fatty and comforting. It’s packed with onion, peas and bean sprouts, and the bits of pork chew tender with a mild flavor.

Moo Shu Chicken comes loaded with sliced mushrooms, chewy-crunchy fungus strips, cabbage and tender chicken, a balm for the spirit. With thick, salty plum sauce and fragile moo shu pancakes, it’s a fine option, and we have enough of the chicken to make another meal.