Recently opened Dozo Sushi a fine spot for a sushi burrito and Genmaicha

click to enlarge MATTHEW SCHNIPER

  • Matthew Schniper

1606 S. Eighth St., 719-203-5699,

Pickup and delivery

Dozo opened in February, and co-owner Jae Cho was the GM of the south end’s Sushi O Sushi for the past six years before splitting off to open it. The pandemic has put a damper on the early days’ enthusiasm, but Cho and crew remain busy at work prepping to-go orders when I stop in for pickup.

I study the expansive sushi menu and look forward to returning to try the house entrées, but this day I’m snared by the words “sushi burrito.” Considering some skinny rolls around town cost the same $12.95, I don’t find it a bad deal to get one giant, thick “burrito,” which reminds me of triangular onigiri rice balls in Japan — just, you know, a different shape. Dozo offers a choice of tuna, spicy tuna, salmon, chicken or beef; I go spicy tuna, and it’s joined inside the seaweed and rice wrap by cucumber choppings, lettuce, scallions and avocado, with a perky, spicy mayo on the side.

What’s lovely is the plating: a couple pretty white flowers (Leucanthemum if I’m not mistaken) nestled in my to-go box with the shaved ginger tangle and wasabi ball. I transfer it all to a plate at home, inspired to treat myself to a nice presentation as if I were dining out. (Oh how we miss doing that.) A hot cup of nutty-tinged genmaicha green tea pairs perfectly for a midday pick-me-up with elegance.