The Shredded Beast serves big portions, they just need a little work

click to enlarge GRIFFIN SWARTZELL

  • Griffin Swartzell

Ross Bunting has converted his shiny metal food truck and pivoted from fried pies (under the name Poe Pies) to Cajun food. We find it at the Lincoln Center, where he serves up a sizable plate of food for our money.

An order of jambalaya sets us back $11 before tip and includes two sides. Cajun corn is corn sans cob, cooked soft, and served in a soupy, creamy sauce that starts with faint trinity flavor — bell pepper, celery and onion, the Cajun cousin of French mirepoix — that plays nice with the corn’s sweetness before cayenne pepper takes over. It’s not scorching, just kinda flatly hot.

Side red beans and rice bear nearly the same flavor profile, though we enjoy the richly meaty beans. As for that jambalaya, the bell pepper and celery stand out, and there’s a lingering heat, but the andouille sausage pieces are bland, the chicken’s dry, and the rice is cooked to mush. We’re not bowled over, but we do walk away stuffed.